FIAT tech tips

1-303-421-0571 for technical assistance
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>I have a 1978 124 (Ca Model) that has a backfire on acceleration after >returning to idle. I have set the distributor to spec, all around spec, >have had two carbs on it, adjusted the timing, to no avail. The exhaust >appears to be the original. Could it be plugged or restricted and does the exhaust have any leaks? test this by plugging the exhaust with a shop towell partially at idle. divertor valve on the right fender? pinch the large hoses to diagnose this. or the EGR on the front of the engine at the intake cam hsg
Fiat electrics are usually OK. Check each fuse with a testlight. It's
not expensive to change all the fuses. And use some di-electric grease to
promote a good connection between fuse and fuse box connector and also
at the bulb and socket connection at each light. If you see any cor-
rosion at any connection, clean both parts with steel wool or Scotchbright
like stuff, use contact cleaner, and use the dielectric grease.
Also mystic problems are sometimes traceable to a bad ground at some point. a clue
here is a light that doesn't have the proper brightness. the dual filament turn sig
bulbs need a good ground or both filaments light feebly. Black wires are generally
ground on fiat.

Preventive.

You 2L spider guys remember to get your keys out of your pockets before you
get into the seat. The metal part of the seat back costs over $125 to repair.

Check the bushing on the breaker plate in your electronic distributor on any '79 and later Marelli distributor.
If there is any up and down motion when you disturb the breaker plate then the bushing needs replacement.
we have bushings and all the other parts for the do-it-yourselfer and we rebuild distributors for $175 exchange

Shifter pancake on pre Yugos, 128s pre 79 X1/9s
The new aftermarket shifter coupling that is a sandwich with steel outside and rubber inside has a
problem. The rubber fails prematurely. To prevent failure and thus a disabled car and tow
bill for you I have a suggestion..... Remove the part from the car with a pair of 13MM end
wrenches and a 10MM end wrench for the trans. end. Secure the pancake in a vise or with a couple
pair of vise grips and drill two holes through the sandwich of steel and rubber in order to put in
a pair of bolts and nuts to partially compress the rubber and secure the sandwich like little
party sandwich toothpicks.

Note to anyone who has purchased one of these shifter pancakes from us and can prove it.
Return it to us for a free preventive modification. And if you can't be without the one on
your car then just leave a deposit for a core charge of $10 while you have the extra one.
This core charge will be returned to you once we have your old part to modify for someone else.
We will do this preventive service for anyone else for a ten dollar fee.

Bleeding the coolant in a FIAT is not needed if:
1. The thermostat opens and the lower hose get hot
2. The cooling fan cycles on and off again
3. The heater works; it should put out good heat even at idle.
4. Choke fully opens; check the choke hoses for heat; also check the choke butterflies

Bleeding the coolant on a carbureted car-
Step 1.
When safe, remove the pressure cap from the radiator and take off one of the coolant
hoses loose from the automatic choke. Open the heater valve (red control lever).
Step 2.
Fill (ideally with 50% distilled water and 50% anti-freeze) at radiator fill full. The air can escape the small hose easily.
Step 3.
Fill with water at the small automatic choke hose till the radiator overflows; air bubbles coming out of the radiator are good. Refit the rad. cap.
Step 4.
Continue to fill at the small hose until the coolant flows from the choke with no bubbles. Refit the hose to the choke.

Bleeding coolant on an F.I. Spider:
If you substitute the small coolant hose at the top of the intake plenum for one of the auto choke hoses then you can use the carbureted car instructions.

Remember to check for cooling fan operation before driving.
Recycle your anti-freeze or dispose of it properly.

When changing the timing belt for any reason on a 2000 cc FIAT engine you have an opportunity to make it more reliable with a little preventive work. Sort of like removing an appendix before it can cause trouble.
The auxillary shaft has a cam lobe on it that drives the mechanical fuel pump on a carbureted car. That lobe is still there in an injected car and it can destroy the engine block if it is not timed properly.
Call 1-303-421-1922

FIAT 124 Spider oil pump hazard:
Always carry a spare quart of oil in your 2 liter. Sometime you could hit an obstacle and damage the oil pump pick-up.
I did once. While going a mere 40 or 45 MPH through an intersection that had a gentle dip, my Brava struck the road with my 1/4" steel pan guard. Immediately there was a knocking noise which I recognized as a broken oil pump banging around in the bottom of my engine. The oil pan was undamaged but the oil pump pick-up had broken off.
So I merely overfilled the crank case with oil (remember that spare quart?) and proceeded on my way. The higher oil level got me home without any engine damage. And I remembered not to go around corners fast or brake heavily.
An oil pan guard can help a lot; but even the best pan guard is not fool proof. Drive your FIAT carefully to avoid crunching the pan or pump.

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to e-mail your request....or call 303-421-1922

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