Carry a spare clutch cable in your Yugo. Clutch cables are cheap and store easily. Furthermore you could probably get one changed before the wrecker gets there.
Change the timing belt at 40,000 miles maximum. Have a qualified tech change the seals for the crankshaft, auxillary shaft and the camshaft as well as the idler bearing.

Don't mess with the screw on the front of the carb; it controls fast idling while the choke is working.

rev the little engine up to drive the car. it has 1100 CCs; that is smaller than some motorcyles

Do not overfill the fuel tank ! Stop fueling when the pump clicks off. Your catalytic convertor could be damaged if you over fill the tank.

Repairs:

To change a clutch on a Yugo:
disconnect battery (10mm end wrench) [tools needed will be in parantheses]
move battery forward a couple of inches to remove trans mount bolt underneath battery box (19mm socket with at least 5 inch extension)
drain gearlube; don't pollute; take old oil to a proper disposal site (12mm allen hex key)
remove left front road wheel (lug wrench)
remove plastic shield that hides left side of transmission (10mm socket or ?) this plastic part might be gone
remove left axle
three bolts (10mm) that secure boot to trans
large axle nut (27mm IMPACT wrench and socket)
left control arm inner pivot bolt (17mm)
sway bar connection at left control arm (22mm)
remove 3 right axle boot bolts (10mm)
remove 2 exhaust bracket bolts (13mm) ; don't lose washers
remove trans mount on left end of trans 3 bolts (13mm)
disconnect clutch cable (10mm end wrenches) ; free it from transmission
disconnect shifter (10mm and 13 mm)
disconnect speedo cable (fingers, pliers or ?)
remove 3 starter bolts (13mm) ; leave starter in car ; don't remove wires except perhaps one at the battery.
remove lower trans mount ; 5 bolts (13mm)
you'll have to support trans to facilitate this
remove flywheel tin cover (10mm) this bolt can be hard to find near the front
remove trans ground wire bolt (13mm) if applicable
remove 4 transmission to engine bolts (19mm) ; actually 3 bolts & a nut
remove transmission ; pull straigh away from engine
remove 6 clutch bolts (10mm) ; carefully, asbestos is hazardous.
inspect flywheel; have it machined if discolored or scored also check the rear main seal ; remove flywheel to change it (19mm)

Instruction to install Yugo timing belt [ tools required in brackets ]

Firstly , I am in no way responsible if you do what you are trying to
prevent from happening, if you bend any valves in this procedure I am
not to blame. When turning the crankshaft use common sense and don't
force anything.

1. Remove black plastic cover from right side fender well underneath that
allows access to the crank shaft pulley. [10 MM socket wrench]

2. Loosen alternator and the smog pump and remove both vee-belts.
[ 17 MM end wrench and 17 MM socket ]

3. Use a 1 1/2" socket to turn the crankshaft, [ 1 1/2" socket wrench]
IMPORTANT: At this point turn crankshaft only if timing belt is still on
the gear pulleys.

4. Locate timing marks on the red plastic cover. Turn cranshaft to TDC.

5. Check cam timing. If close to what the diagram [flashlight]
shows then proceed otherwise rotate crankshaft one more revolution and check
cam timing again.

6. If for some reason, at TDC either time when you check the cam timing, the
cam timing is incorrect by more than 2 gear teeth then you may have bent
valves. CALL 1-800-ITS-FIAT if you need a rebuilt cylinder head with the
cam installed, valves adjusted and ready to install. Please use our tech
phone line for service related assistance----1-303-421-0571.

7. If cam timing is reasonably close, remove the red plastic timing cover.
Note the position of the cam wheel and now that the red cover is off.

8. De-tension the idler/tensionner bearing. To do this loosen slightly
the 17 MM nut at the center of the idler bearing and pull on the front side
of the belt; this will adjust the bearing for the longest belt and make re-
moval and installation of the new belt easier. [ 17 mm end wrench ]

9. If you're changing the crankshaft seal remove the crankshaft pulley nut
with an impact wrench and remove the crankshaft vee-belt pulley.
[ 1/2" drive impact wrench and 1 1/2" socket for the nut, usually hands for
crank pulley]
If the vee-belt pulley is tough to remove then try prying gently with long
screwdriver type levers. This is best done if you pry the at the two spots
marked on the diagram. You must rotate the crankshaft to be able to do this.
Use your hands on the pulley to rotate the crank no more than 60 degrees.
[ may need flat pry tools to remove crankshaft vee-belt pulley ]

10. Remove the timing belt.

11. Change the seals.
Pry the crankshaft seal out by twisting a screw driver.
[ long straight screwdriver ]

The cam gear must be removed with an impact wrench. [17 MM impact socket
or a chain wrench to hold the pulley while you use a 17 MM combination
wrench ]

The auxillary wheel similarly. Tip the engine up by removing the 19 MM
bolts on motor mounts under the battery and near where the red cover was.
[ 19MM socket]

If any timing gear pulley is damaged or has visible wear then replace it.

12. If you rotated the engine to remove the vee-belt pulley it's O.K.
Turn the cam wheel back to it's proper position as indicated by the
marks on the wheel and on the black timing belt cover backing plate. Then
carefully turn the crankshaft back to TDC by hands ( it may be difficult by
hand but i don't beleive that you can bend a valve that way.)

13. If changing the idler/tensionner bearing then remove the nuts and washers
from the bearing. Pay close attention to these washers they are important get
them back the same way on reassembly. Get another 17 MM nut like you just
took off the bearing; in a pinch borrow one from a nearby motor mount.
double nut the idler bearing stud to remove it.

14. Refit the timing belt. Double check the crankshaft and camshaft.

15. Tension the cam belt. I just pull the slack out of the belt with my
hand on the bearing side of the belt; the spring will put aproximately the
correct tension on the belt. It shouldn't be too tight. Check the tension
on the front on belt. ( see diagram )

16. Reassemble mounts, refit red plastic cover, vee-belts, and black cover.

17. With the cam timing marks at TDC and and the crankshaft at TDC set the
ignition timing to fire #4 cylinder. It'll backfire if you get it one #1
cylinder.

18. Rotate the crankshaft exactly 2 full turns and recheck the cam timing.

19. Set ignition timing with vacuum hose off (6 deg before top dead center.)